Retinol: Skincare's Most Mysterious Multitasker

“Is there any retinol, Retin-A, or tretinoin in your skincare routine?” 

“...What?” 

If you’ve ever received a treatment at La Bella Derma, chances are we’ve had this conversation. Retinol, or vitamin A, is a well-researched ingredient that treats a wide variety of skin concerns–so why is it still so unknown? Let’s sit down together and go through all the applications and concerns regarding this skincare superstar. 

How does retinol work? This one’s for my fellow nerds. When applied to the face, retinol converts to retinoic acid. Retinoic acid then permeates cell membranes in order to stimulate cell growth and turnover. It’s also been shown that retinol stimulates collagen production, resulting in more youthful, plump skin. On top of all that, vitamin A is an antioxidant, which protects our skin against free radicals (AKA unstable molecules in the environment around us that do damage to our skin). 

What is retinol used for? Almost everything! Because it stimulates cell turnover, retinol is ideal for treating skin conditions that affect us on a deep level, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots/hyperpigmentation. This increased cell regeneration also helps keep pores clear, making retinoids a great option for treating acne. In fact, numerous OTC and prescription-only acne treatments are retinoids, such as: Retin-A (tretinoin) Differin (adapalene) Accutane (isotretinoin) Tazorac- I could go on! 

If you have a skin concern, there's likely a retinol for you. That sounds too good to be true! Are there any risks? Retinol and retinoids, as I mentioned before, are extremely well researched and understood. That being said, retinol is a potent ingredient and it’s important to introduce it into your routine gradually. Too much retinol too fast can result in redness, sensitivity, dryness, or flaking. Start using it 1-2 days a week and increase over time as your skin gets used to it. 

When using a retinol (and also if you’re not!), you should be wearing sunscreen every day. Sunlight deactivates retinol, making it a waste to apply it during the day. Newly surfaced skin is delicate and sensitive to sunlight, making you more likely to sustain photodamage, like dark spots or a sunburn. Retinoids also increase the chance of skin lifting during waxing, meaning you must stop all retinol use for five days prior to any facial waxing (which is why we always ask about it!). People who are pregnant, trying to become pregnant, or breastfeeding should also stop all retinol usage for the duration of that period. 

In conclusion: Retinol is a safe, reliable ingredient that treats a multitude of skin concerns. It can be found in many OTC serums, creams, and other skin treatments, and a higher concentration may be prescribed by a dermatologist for certain concerns. It should be introduced into your routine slowly to avoid irritation. Eager to add a retinol to your routine? During your next visit to La Bella Derma, ask your esthetician about PCA’s retinol serums, or book a PCA retinol peel to reveal brand new, healthy skin. 

Additional sources: https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/ https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/how-does-retinol-work

https://www.everydayhealth.com/smart-skin/new-to-retinol-a-complete-guide-on-the-skin-care-ingredient/

https://www.dermstore.com/blog/types-of-retinoids-benefits/

Written By Taylor Blair for La Bella Derma

Faux Undereye Circles?

Most of us seem to encounter stress and lagging energy in the winter months. Nobody likes to hear “whoa, you look tired!” - well, um, thanks for the unsolicited status report on my face? Personally, I find it’s easier to fake it till the coffee kicks in when I don’t look as sleepy as I feel. There’s something I noticed happening for clients of all ages during my ten or so years I spent as a makeup artist before deep diving into the world of skincare. And, I don’t often see it specifically addressed by skincare professionals. We talk about hyperpigmentation, sun damage, undereye darkness, puffiness, etc. but what about when those first two create the appearance of undereye shadows or darkness?

Hyperpigmentation specifically in the under-eye and cheekbone area can create the appearance of more shadowing than is actually there. You’ve heard of contouring when it comes to makeup application, right? Contouring is creating artificial ‘shadows’ with makeup to give the appearance of specific bone structure that we want to mimic, such as the hollows that would appear naturally under high cheekbones. So what happens when we have areas of darker shading in areas like the undereye where we don’t want darkness? The appearance of shadows from undereye bags when there are none to cast a shadow in the first place! 

Let’s be clear: melanin itself isn’t a bad thing! It is the pigment that creates the beautiful rich gradient of skin tones and variety of hair colors that exist in the world, it helps protect skin from UV damage, and can be a wonderful thing aesthetically AND esthetically. But when we have an excess of melanin that we weren’t born with from sun-damaged cells overproducing pigment, it can cause hyperpigmentation in the form of dark patches, “age spots”, freckles, and areas of uneven skin tone. 

Here’s an example from a client in her early 30s who is an outdoor-loving Vermonter and is now an outdoor-loving, SPF-loving Vermonter. The photo on the left was taken during her complimentary consultation at the end of a full summer (come make my day and let’s chat about your skin!). The photo on the right is after three PCA peels, about four weeks apart, while using homecare and sun-protection between treatments.

This client didn’t even come in to see us for sun damage or pigmentation– she and I actually focused on tackling acne and her overall skin health and had impressive bonus improvement around her eyes! This is just one of the perks of peels! They’re excellent for so many different skin condition and, who really only has one thing going on with their skin anyway?! So how do we prevent and correct this kind of sneaky pigmentation? 

• Fast-track your progress with gentle PCA Peels (La Bella Derma has several options that are completely safe to use on delicate undereye skin!) 
• Sunscreen. You knew I was going to say it! It really is the NUMBER ONE way to prevent aging. Try an SPF with the active ingredients of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. These two skincare heroes are pure, finely milled mineral (they rock! hah.) and won’t cause eye irritation. *If you have skin sensitivies or have experienced sensitivity in the past check the ingredient label to make sure the only ACTIVE ingredients are zinc and or titanium dioxide. LBD Faves: PCA Sheer Tint SPF 45 or PCA Sheer Tint Eye SPF 30 (which also packs in excellent undereye skincare to boot) 
• Sunglasses with legitimate UV protection. 
• Work gentle discoloration brightening ingredients such as starflower extract and resveratrol: might I recommend Lillian Sophia's AOX Brightening Serum?! Also look out for Vitamin B3 (you may have heard of it as Niacinamide) that also help strengthen your skin’s natural defenses into your skincare routine at home. The Lillian Sophia Youth Serum showcases Vitamin B3 as well as PCA Skin B3 Brightening Serum!

We are also always available to gently boss you around if a list of options makes your brain freeze. Option-fatigue is also very treatable! Hope to see you soon, may you stay well-rested and warm until then, 

Meg at La Bella Derma