Brow Shaping Tips
Brows are defined by: arch, length, thickness, neatness, color and angle sharpness. There are common corrective procedures in place. Learn when to use them—and when to ignore them.
Rule: Close- & wide-set eyes
Start the brow closer to the outside of the nostril for close-set, and closer to the inside of the nostril for wide-set.
Break the rule: Do not deviate far from the natural curve coming off of the bridge of the nose, which creates an unnatural look.
Rule: Wide face
Remove hair from under the brow
to create a greater arch and elongate the face.
Break the rule: If a prominent space exists under the brow, or if the face is very round, it will exacerbate the problem.
Rule: Oblong face
Straighten out the arch by removing hair from above the brow.
Break the rule: When encountering a narrow underbrow space that would prohibit a highlight area, do not remove hair above the brow.
Rule: Square face
A square face will almost always requires a prominent arch.
Break the rule: Move the arch to the outer two-thirds of the eye to create a full brow and keep the look current.
The trick is to balance the features without sacrificing the enhancement of another desirable feature. A healthy, full brow is a sign of good health and youth. Brows are important to facial symmetry. They can detract from dark undereye circles or an undesired prominent feature. Most makeup artists agree that clients are more opinionated about their brows than most other features. A seasoned artist will have negotiation tactics when clients desire bold eye makeup and barely-there brows. When lashes and brows are lush and full, busy women can wear less makeup, saving time and money. For those desiring full, modern brows, new technological advancements have tangible results when expertly applied. For example, one product developed for root outgrowth on the scalp also works well for brows. One positively charged end of double-ended zinc particles magnetically attaches to negatively charged hair, and the pigment particles at the other end attaches to the hair.3 Today’s market hosts a prolific bounty of precision pencils and pens, textural powders, waxes and gels that hold up to the scrutiny of daylight.
Tips for Fuller Brows
Step 1. Comb the lashes up and out to stay with the natural growth pattern and trim any hairs that are too long. Apply a lighter brow powder to add texture for fine hair, or a wax for coarse brows.
Step 2. Following the brow powder, apply two fine-point brow pencils in slightly different tones for added depth and etch the brows only where needed. Follow the natural curve, gliding off the bridge of the nose to create a soft angle.
Step 3. Fill in under the brow to thicken and straighten the arch while filling in bald patches. Do not fill above the brow line, as it will be visible.
Step 4. Set with brow powder in the desired color; a darker taupe is fashionable for blonde hair. Although dark brows are in vogue, black-brown colors will be more attractive than black for dark hair, due to the value intensity when layering product.
Step 5. Apply ample brow gel or hairspray on a spooley. A small handheld fan will dry unruly brows in place before they can resist.
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