Distinguishing Melasma from Hyperpigmentation: Understanding and Managing Their Differences

Dive into the fascinating world of skin discolorations as we unravel the differences between melasma and hyperpigmentation—two common conditions responsible for dark patches on the skin. Learn about their unique characteristics and discover effective approaches to managing these challenging skin issues.

What constitutes hyperpigmentation and melasma?

Hyperpigmentation encompasses various forms of skin discoloration, including freckles, age spots, marks left from acne (known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), damage caused by sun exposure, or melasma. It's a widespread issue where certain areas of the skin become darker than surrounding areas, caused by an overproduction of melanin, leading to spots or patches that may appear brown, black, gray, red, or pink.

While these discolorations generally do not lead to any physical discomfort, they can have a profound effect on an individual's self-confidence due to their cosmetic appearance. The good news is that through a blend of lifestyle modifications and therapeutic interventions, it's possible to not only prevent further hyperpigmentation but also address existing conditions.

Melasma, on the other hand, is a specific type of hyperpigmentation primarily triggered by hormonal changes and significantly exacerbated by exposure to ultraviolet (UV) and visible light. 

Let's explore the various factors influencing the onset of hyperpigmentation:

Sun Exposure

The leading cause of hyperpigmentation is exposure to the sun. Sunlight actively encourages melanin production, aggravating existing hyperpigmentation. This highlights the essential role of sunscreen as the foundation of any skincare regimen.

Hormonal Factors

Women are particularly susceptible to hormone-induced hyperpigmentation, with conditions like chloasma or melasma. These situations demonstrate the effects of hormones, like estrogen and progesterone, on melanin production. This is often exemplified during pregnancy when such conditions can intensify.

Aging and Hyperpigmentation

Commonly known as age or liver spots, solar lentigines are a form of localized hyperpigmentation that commonly accompanies photo-aging. Despite a decline in melanocyte count as we age, continual exposure to UV radiation can lead to an increased number of melanocytes in exposed areas, causing these spots. This underscores the need for diligent sun protection.

Genetics Influence

Genetic makeup can determine the natural variations in skin color and the behavior of melanocytes, potentially leading to localized skin changes due to inherited factors or mutations post-conception.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Skin injuries or conditions like acne, burns, eczema, and psoriasis can trigger PIH, where the skin darkens after the inflammation or wound has healed.

Medication-Related Hyperpigmentation

Specific medications, including certain antibiotics, contraceptives, antimalarials, and antidepressants, may induce hyperpigmentation, with effects ranging from brown to blue or grey hues.

Diverse Types of Hyperpigmentation

Freckles: These small, concentrated spots typically appear on people with fair skin as a direct response to sun exposure.

Sunspots: These flat, darkened areas on the skin are caused by extensive sun exposure, often manifesting on the face and hands.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: PIH results from increased melanin production during the healing of skin injuries or inflammation.

Melasma: Exhibiting as brown, dark brown, or blue-gray patches, melasma can present as large areas or dot-like spots, most commonly on the face and sometimes on the forearms.

Understanding Melasma

• A genetic component, as evidenced by the prevalence of melasma in family members
• The worsening effect of UV radiation from sun exposure
• Hormonal imbalances, such as those experienced during pregnancy or with the use of hormonal contraceptives.

Rekindle Your Love Of SPF

Hey there, beautiful skin seekers! Let's talk about a topic that affects many of us: hyperpigmentation. You might have heard this term before, but if you're not quite sure what it is, hyperpigmentation is basically when our skin produces more melanin than usual, leading to dark patches or spots.

Many factors can contribute to hyperpigmentation, including hormonal changes, sun exposure, and inflammation. Speaking of which, did you know that SPF can play a HUGE role in preventing and minimizing hyperpigmentation? That's right, my friend, sunscreen is not just for protecting us from skin cancer and premature aging. Let's dive a little deeper into how SPF can help with hyperpigmentation.

First of all, sun exposure is a major trigger for hyperpigmentation. When our skin is exposed to UV rays, it triggers the production of melanin as a defense mechanism. If we don't wear sunscreen or don't wear enough of it, that melanin production can go into overdrive, leading to those unwanted dark spots. So wearing a broad-spectrum SPF (which protects against both UVA and UVB rays) can help prevent hyperpigmentation from developing in the first place.

But what if you already have some dark spots? Can SPF help with that? The answer is YES! When we expose hyperpigmented skin to UV rays, it can actually make those spots even darker and harder to fade. By wearing SPF every day, regardless of whether you're spending time outdoors or not, you're helping to prevent further darkening and allowing any existing spots to gradually fade over time.

But there's a catch - not all sunscreens are created equal. It's crucial to choose an SPF that's right for your skin type and needs. Some chemical sunscreens can actually worsen hyperpigmentation in some people, so opting for a physical sunscreen (which contains minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) is often a safer bet. We love the Lillian Sophia Physical Tint SPF, and EltaMD UV Physical. And as always, be sure to reapply throughout the day (every 80 minutes), especially if you're sweating or swimming.

In summary, hyperpigmentation can be a frustrating skin concern, but incorporating SPF into your daily routine is a simple and effective way to prevent and minimize it. So slather on that sunscreen, my friend, and let's keep those dark spots at bay!

Sandwiching Your Retinol

Retinol!​​​​​​​​

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By now, you either use it, have used it, or have heard about retinol. Maybe you've heard that it's the miracle anti-aging product (you're not wrong), maybe you've heard that it can be super irritating and hard to use (also, not wrong). If you're sitting at your desk, distracted by the tight, flaky skin flying off your face, or breaking out more than usual whilst using a product that is designed to make said acne disappear- keep reading.

Retinol is both a prescription (found under many names) and a cosmeceutical. Prescription retinol such as Atralin, Avita, Refissa, Renova, Retin-A, Tretinoin, etc are prescribed by a Dermatologist or PCP to treat various forms of acne and Rosacea. These topicals are also amazing anti-aging products. Retinols are also available at some Spas for sale OTC (not to get confused with moisturizers marketed to contain retinol- we'll get into that another day).

So, now that you know what it is and what it does to your skin, you might be wondering "but how can I use this product without feeling so much discomfort?" It's important to use your retinol regularly (whether that's once weekly, or every night). When you start and stop and apply without any regularity, your skin has a hard time acclimating to it. So, instead of throwing your miracle tube in the time-out corner because you need a break- try sandwiching your retinol, (and also maybe lessen the days/ week you use it).

To sandwich your retinol, you will simply apply a light layer of moisturizer to your cleansed skin (at bedtime- retinol is ONLY for nighttime use) followed by your favorite retinol, and then topped off again with more moisturizer. This method works fabulously for clients who are new to retinol, have sensitive skin, or who struggle with dry/dehydrated skin.

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You can safely sandwich your retinol and still reap all the same benefits, but without the irritation.

​​​​​​It is, however important to not use a moisturizer that contains AHAs, BHA, or vitamin C or fragrance when combining with retinol (whether sandwiching or not!) ​​​​​​​​

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At La Bella Derma, we have a retinol for everyone, and a moisturizer too!

Post-Holiday Self Care

    

    The holidays. Regardless of what you celebrate, you either love them or loathe them. This time meant for togetherness and reflection is often marred by packed schedules, long to-do lists, social obligations, and just an awful lot of stress. When was the last time you took a break from thinking of everyone else to think of YOURSELF? If you put your own needs in the backseat last month, we’re with you. But now it’s January. New year, new you. 

The term “self care” was coined sometime in the 1950’s. It was popularized during the Civil Rights movement of the ‘60s due in part to its use by activists of the time, such as poet Audra Lorde. What was originally seen as a revolutionary act–taking care of yourself in the face of major social and personal trauma–has become something we now understand is hugely important for your physical and mental health. When you are not properly managing your stress, it can manifest in a variety of symptoms, such as insomnia, lack of concentration, irritability, headaches, and gastrointestinal distress. Repeated acute stress (stress that affects you frequently) has also been shown to contribute to inflammation in the circulatory system!

That all seems pretty serious, but let’s talk about how to manage it before you get stressed out about your stress. The National Institute of Mental Health (NIMH) recommends setting time aside for activities that promote mental and physical wellness. For example, taking a walk for just 30 minutes a day can greatly improve your mood. Additionally, saying “no” to things/people and setting boundaries is important to avoid burnout. Lastly, it’s important to take time out of your schedule to do activities that relax and nurture you. This could be something as simple as curling up with a book, having a bath, or getting a facial in an environment meant for total relaxation. 

So let’s start this year off right. Taking care of yourself is imperative to whole body wellness. The way we react to stress greatly affects every aspect of our wellbeing, from our quality of sleep to our appetite to the health of our circulatory system. Wrinkles? Yup. Acne? Absolutely. That’s right- skin conditions can be caused by stress! It’s OK. The skin professionals at La Bella Derma have got your back!

Written by Taylor Blair for La Bella Derma

https://meridian.allenpress.com/jmhc/article-abstract/32/3/247/83286/Self-care-and-Well-being-in-Mental-Health

https://www.nimh.nih.gov/health/topics/caring-for-your-mental-health

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1365-2524.2011.01014.x

https://mhanational.org/taking-good-care-yourselfhttps://mhanational.org/taking-good-care-yourself

https://www.cdc.gov/mentalhealth/stress-coping/care-for-yourself/index.html

https://www.verywellmind.com/self-care-strategies-overall-stress-reduction-3144729

https://www.verywellmind.com/how-and-why-to-find-time-for-yourself-3144757

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-care

Retinol: Skincare's Most Mysterious Multitasker

“Is there any retinol, Retin-A, or tretinoin in your skincare routine?” 

“...What?” 

If you’ve ever received a treatment at La Bella Derma, chances are we’ve had this conversation. Retinol, or vitamin A, is a well-researched ingredient that treats a wide variety of skin concerns–so why is it still so unknown? Let’s sit down together and go through all the applications and concerns regarding this skincare superstar. 

How does retinol work? This one’s for my fellow nerds. When applied to the face, retinol converts to retinoic acid. Retinoic acid then permeates cell membranes in order to stimulate cell growth and turnover. It’s also been shown that retinol stimulates collagen production, resulting in more youthful, plump skin. On top of all that, vitamin A is an antioxidant, which protects our skin against free radicals (AKA unstable molecules in the environment around us that do damage to our skin). 

What is retinol used for? Almost everything! Because it stimulates cell turnover, retinol is ideal for treating skin conditions that affect us on a deep level, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots/hyperpigmentation. This increased cell regeneration also helps keep pores clear, making retinoids a great option for treating acne. In fact, numerous OTC and prescription-only acne treatments are retinoids, such as: Retin-A (tretinoin) Differin (adapalene) Accutane (isotretinoin) Tazorac- I could go on! 

If you have a skin concern, there's likely a retinol for you. That sounds too good to be true! Are there any risks? Retinol and retinoids, as I mentioned before, are extremely well researched and understood. That being said, retinol is a potent ingredient and it’s important to introduce it into your routine gradually. Too much retinol too fast can result in redness, sensitivity, dryness, or flaking. Start using it 1-2 days a week and increase over time as your skin gets used to it. 

When using a retinol (and also if you’re not!), you should be wearing sunscreen every day. Sunlight deactivates retinol, making it a waste to apply it during the day. Newly surfaced skin is delicate and sensitive to sunlight, making you more likely to sustain photodamage, like dark spots or a sunburn. Retinoids also increase the chance of skin lifting during waxing, meaning you must stop all retinol use for five days prior to any facial waxing (which is why we always ask about it!). People who are pregnant, trying to become pregnant, or breastfeeding should also stop all retinol usage for the duration of that period. 

In conclusion: Retinol is a safe, reliable ingredient that treats a multitude of skin concerns. It can be found in many OTC serums, creams, and other skin treatments, and a higher concentration may be prescribed by a dermatologist for certain concerns. It should be introduced into your routine slowly to avoid irritation. Eager to add a retinol to your routine? During your next visit to La Bella Derma, ask your esthetician about PCA’s retinol serums, or book a PCA retinol peel to reveal brand new, healthy skin. 

Additional sources: https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/ https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/how-does-retinol-work

https://www.everydayhealth.com/smart-skin/new-to-retinol-a-complete-guide-on-the-skin-care-ingredient/

https://www.dermstore.com/blog/types-of-retinoids-benefits/

Written By Taylor Blair for La Bella Derma

Faux Undereye Circles?

Most of us seem to encounter stress and lagging energy in the winter months. Nobody likes to hear “whoa, you look tired!” - well, um, thanks for the unsolicited status report on my face? Personally, I find it’s easier to fake it till the coffee kicks in when I don’t look as sleepy as I feel. There’s something I noticed happening for clients of all ages during my ten or so years I spent as a makeup artist before deep diving into the world of skincare. And, I don’t often see it specifically addressed by skincare professionals. We talk about hyperpigmentation, sun damage, undereye darkness, puffiness, etc. but what about when those first two create the appearance of undereye shadows or darkness?

Hyperpigmentation specifically in the under-eye and cheekbone area can create the appearance of more shadowing than is actually there. You’ve heard of contouring when it comes to makeup application, right? Contouring is creating artificial ‘shadows’ with makeup to give the appearance of specific bone structure that we want to mimic, such as the hollows that would appear naturally under high cheekbones. So what happens when we have areas of darker shading in areas like the undereye where we don’t want darkness? The appearance of shadows from undereye bags when there are none to cast a shadow in the first place! 

Let’s be clear: melanin itself isn’t a bad thing! It is the pigment that creates the beautiful rich gradient of skin tones and variety of hair colors that exist in the world, it helps protect skin from UV damage, and can be a wonderful thing aesthetically AND esthetically. But when we have an excess of melanin that we weren’t born with from sun-damaged cells overproducing pigment, it can cause hyperpigmentation in the form of dark patches, “age spots”, freckles, and areas of uneven skin tone. 

Here’s an example from a client in her early 30s who is an outdoor-loving Vermonter and is now an outdoor-loving, SPF-loving Vermonter. The photo on the left was taken during her complimentary consultation at the end of a full summer (come make my day and let’s chat about your skin!). The photo on the right is after three PCA peels, about four weeks apart, while using homecare and sun-protection between treatments.

This client didn’t even come in to see us for sun damage or pigmentation– she and I actually focused on tackling acne and her overall skin health and had impressive bonus improvement around her eyes! This is just one of the perks of peels! They’re excellent for so many different skin condition and, who really only has one thing going on with their skin anyway?! So how do we prevent and correct this kind of sneaky pigmentation? 

• Fast-track your progress with gentle PCA Peels (La Bella Derma has several options that are completely safe to use on delicate undereye skin!) 
• Sunscreen. You knew I was going to say it! It really is the NUMBER ONE way to prevent aging. Try an SPF with the active ingredients of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. These two skincare heroes are pure, finely milled mineral (they rock! hah.) and won’t cause eye irritation. *If you have skin sensitivies or have experienced sensitivity in the past check the ingredient label to make sure the only ACTIVE ingredients are zinc and or titanium dioxide. LBD Faves: PCA Sheer Tint SPF 45 or PCA Sheer Tint Eye SPF 30 (which also packs in excellent undereye skincare to boot) 
• Sunglasses with legitimate UV protection. 
• Work gentle discoloration brightening ingredients such as starflower extract and resveratrol: might I recommend Lillian Sophia's AOX Brightening Serum?! Also look out for Vitamin B3 (you may have heard of it as Niacinamide) that also help strengthen your skin’s natural defenses into your skincare routine at home. The Lillian Sophia Youth Serum showcases Vitamin B3 as well as PCA Skin B3 Brightening Serum!

We are also always available to gently boss you around if a list of options makes your brain freeze. Option-fatigue is also very treatable! Hope to see you soon, may you stay well-rested and warm until then, 

Meg at La Bella Derma

Benefits Of Pumpkin Enzymes

Pumpkin enzymes are cited by some anti-aging regimes as an anti-oxidant treatment to improve skin tone. What are anti-oxidants? They are chemicals that essentially mop up the effects of free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause damage to cells in the body. Damage caused by these molecules increases with age and is believed to play a role in causing age related diseases such as cancer and heart disease. Anti-oxidant therapy has been shown in scientific research to be beneficial for anti aging purposes, and pumpkin enzyme extract contains them. As well as removing free radicals from the body, anti oxidants also stimulate collagen production which helps wrinkles. These are a few of the many reasons why we can't get enough of the Lillian Sophia pumpkin treatment mask. This mask is very versatile. It can be used 1-3 times a week as a mask, or mixed with your favorite skin cleanser to bump it up a notch. Simply mix a small amount in your hand, rub it on the face and let sit for up to ten minutes. In addition to anti-aging benefits, anti-oxidant therapy has been shown in scientific research to be beneficial for anti aging purposes, and pumpkin enzyme extract contains them. As well as removing free radicals from the body, anti oxidants also stimulate collagen production which helps wrinkles. These are a few of the many reasons why we can't get enough of the Lillian Sophia pumpkin treatment mask. This mask is very versatile. It can be used 1-3 times a week as a mask, or mixed with your favorite skin cleanser and use daily.